World War I does not really feature in the minds of Israelis when they think about Israel’s modern history. For them it all began with the War of Independence because their very existence was at stake and it was long and costly in terms of lives. So the ANZAC invasion and the speeches by PM Netanyahu at Be’er Sheva have been an opportunity for Israelis to consider the role played by the British, the ANZACs and colonial forces in WW1 in opening up the land for the modern state of Israel.
In the days leading up to October 31st parts of Be’er Sheva’s thoroughfares were marked by poles carrying Israeli, Australian and New Zealand flags, a welcome sight to the many international visitors. It is a big deal for the city as this event and the opening of the ANZAC museum funded by JNF Australia pave the way for greater tourism in this region. On the day many roads were closed to make way for the endless procession of tour buses moving the visitors from place to place speedily. An estimated 5,000 visitors descended upon the city that day plus hoards of security and local volunteers; who all got into the ANZAC spirit.
A century ago it was far different, Beersheba was an unremarkable outpost desert town. But it was the home of some strategic wells in the desert that had to be captured. This made it the focus of Allied attention. Water is life in the desert after all. But that was not all. It’s strategic position at the base of the Hebron Road leading to Jerusalem and a southern gateway to the important coastal route made it more so. It was a do or die battle literally.
Sadly, the British hardly got a mention yet their forces represent as much as 80% of the dead. Their latter role in the White Paper, blocking Jewish immigration and the harsh treatment of Jews during the Mandate period all but obscured the good.
The day began with the ANZAC Ceremony in the grounds of the Commonwealth War Graves cemetery reminding us all of the price of war. The big question on many peoples’ minds was whether PM Netanyahu would come. He did and not just to the main ceremony. New Zealand was represented by the Governor General Dame Patsy Ready who managed to get there just in time after swearing in the new government. PM Netanyahu spoke about natural kinship and thanked the ANZACs for opening the gates and paving the way for the modern state of Israel saying that they would not be forgotten. Our Governor General spoke of the warm relationship with Israel, the huge price of war to NZ in that era and NZ’s fundamental commitment to Israel’s existence, all to a cheering crowd.
After the cemetery service the nearby ANZAC museum overlooking the graves was opened and a small Turkish ceremony was held before the street parade commenced. Local youngsters joined in to a cheering crowd and marched with their distinctive school white T-shirts with blue writing and the tiny tots stole the show. Many youngsters wanted to trade Israeli flags for Australian or New Zealand flags or souvenirs. Then came the horses and riders dressed in WWI winter garb sweltering in the hot sun including Don Moore of Nelson and his cousin. Interestingly, many women and Aboriginals were also riding. The event marked the culmination of the three-week light horse tour that began in Egypt and covered the battlefields from Egypt, Sinai and Jordan as well as Israel.
A select group of about 200 were able to go to the Tel where the NZ ceremony was held including former Israeli Ambassador Josef Livne and Kiwis residing in Israel. Ambassador Gerberg was part of the official delegation. Tel Sheva is a UNESCO heritage site located about five kms from the city. Chauvel’s hill is easily seen where the final charge was masterminded as is the modern city and the plain where the Australians famously charged. It was here that the Kiwis fought a dug-in Turkish force to open up the plain. Whilst awaiting the arrival of the official party, chaplain Ants Hawes outlined the nature of the NZ battle and gave the timing of each step. The ceremony began with the blast of the shofar followed by the conche shell linking the nations and the Pacific Islanders who also fought. The Queen Alexander Mounted Rifles from the lower North Island formed a Guidon Party with impressive triangular flag banners.
The Maori NZDF group sang their hearts out concluding with “Now is the Hour” and the atmosphere throughout was sacred and respectful. But it would take a He Taua haka and a Maori warrior to complete the picture.
Representatives of the NZ contigent of the MFO forces from the Sinai and UNTSO peacekeepers formed the guard of honour and reminded us all of our current commitment to Israel’s defence. Netanyahu spoke of the strategic role of the Jewish spies in the battle and the need to remember the past and celebrate the future. Amazingly the official party including the two PMs mounted the tower and surveyed the scene allowing for photographs and on return shook hands with some delighted visitors who exclaimed, “God Bless you PM Netanyahu”. Bibi was in his element all day enjoying the relaxed environment and warm welcome from the crowd, probably wishing he could have many more days like this!!
Then it was a quick dash to observe the re-enactment of the charge in a paddock. Just like the events on battle day, the charge was delayed by the events on the Tel meaning the timing was almost identical. The dust swirled and the riders took off in the twilight to give locals and visitors alike a taste of the events of the day save the weapons and fighting. At the conclusion some made their way to the Park of the Australian Soldier where the Pratt foundation of Australia put on an Aussie BBQ. But for many the early start meant a long bus ride home and gave this event a miss.
The night before saw the opening of the exhibitions at the Museum of Rishon le Zion by the Governor General of NZ and the head of the Museum. The exhibitions focus on the relationship between the Kiwi soldiers and the people of Rishon le Zion. The opening was a time for Kiwis in Israel to gather and meet the locals in Rishon Le Zion just as their forefathers had. In the entry room are details about Ottoman oppression of the Jews setting the scene for the welcoming of the liberating Kiwi soldiers. This museum event was in addition to the unveiling of a plaque of friendship between our nations near the famous well where the ANZACs stopped in 1917 to drink and be revived physically and emotionally.
Rebecca Holden’s much-admired vivid artwork was embedded into the local Museum’s exhibition that included photos and information about what the ANZACs got up to in Rishon including playing with the children and spoiling them with ration treats and marbles. There is even a WW1 uniform on a mannequin and ammunition from the scene. Yona Shapira, the curator agreed with the summation that R is for Rishon and R is for relationship. R is also for Rebecca who was one of the catalysts of the event. It is hoped that this exhibition will be the beginning of a much closer relationship.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Joanna Moss is a Wellington based researcher and writer. She is also NZFOI’s Wellington Regional Coordinator and is attending ANZAC events in Israel and representing NZFOI there.
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